Saturday, December 7, 2024

The Triumphant Return of Pressed Powder

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During the artistic gymnastics women’s team final at the 2024 Paris Olympics, Simone Biles was photographed touching up her makeup with a Fenty Beauty palette. For beauty gals, it’s easily the most lasting image of the games (sorry to that surfer floating in mid-air). Suddenly everyone had to know: What was the G.O.A.T. using? The compact in question was the Fenty Beauty Invisimatte Instant Setting + Blotting Powder.

This isn’t the first time the product has received primetime attention. It’s the same one Rihanna used to touch up her makeup with during her Super Bowl halftime performance. And ever since then, pressed powder has been battling glazed-everything for center stage. As fall rapidly approaches, it seems likely that matte finishes will finally pull ahead in the complexion competition.

In August alone, Prada Beauty, Tom Ford Beauty, and Tower 28 have launched new pressed powders. In May, YSL Beauty came out with one, and last month, Too Faced did too. Perhaps the buzziest recent launch of them all though is Rare Beauty’s True To Myself, a range of 14 shades sold alongside a cute puff.

Fenty Beauty

Invisimatte Instant Setting + Blotting Powder

So what’s with the swift and sudden rise in face powders? In many ways, the return to mattified skin was inevitable. It’s been two years since Hailey Bieber’s Rhode Skin launched, catapulting “glazed donut skin” into common parlance. Dewy skin has been the dominant complexion trend since, with products like Saie’s Glowy Super Gel, Glow Recipe’s Watermelon Glow Dew Drops, and Rhode’s own skin-care range helping us achieve a look resembling shiny confectionery treats.

But, naturally, the trend pendulum was bound to swing back in the other direction. According to Google Trends, “matte makeup” was searched two times more than “dewy makeup” in the U.S. within the past year. And for those of us triggered by the memory of flat, thick powders, there’s hope.


Meet the experts:


“The latest pressed and setting powders are a big step up from the ones we used to know,” assures Krupa Koestline, a cosmetic chemist and chief cosmetic officer at KKT Labs, adding that brands like Rare Beauty “really nailed it” on their formulas. “These powders are super fine and blend into the skin beautifully, so you don’t get that cakey look. They utilize ultra-light emollients and powders that help the product stay put longer and not transfer as much.” Think of these new powders as what a BB cream is to foundation: Rather than adding a noticeable layer of makeup, they sit lightly on and move with the skin, gently blurring your skin’s natural tone and texture rather than trying to cover it up completely.

Tom Ford

Architecture Soft Matte Blurring Powder

Too Faced

Born This Way Soft Blur Flexible Finish Setting Powder

Rare Beauty

True To Myself Tinted Pressed Setting Powder

If you’re not quite ready to dive head-first into a matte moment, you can still benefit from having a powder in your makeup bag. “Trends come and go, but everyone needs a good setting powder. I definitely think there is a place for both dewy and matte products in the makeup universe,” says celebrity makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes, who is working with Tower28 for the launch of its GetSet powder. “Certain areas, like under the nose or eyes, shouldn’t be too dewy, and setting powder is perfect for mattifying these spots.” The pro says that powder can even add oomph to a highlight: “Applying powder around your mouth or under your cheek can also enhance dewy highlights [on other parts of your face], making them pop.”

What sets these newer formulas apart from more traditional pressed powders is that they’re finer, more flexible, and overall more natural-looking.“People were scared of powders in the past because the particles used to be so thick,” celebrity makeup artist Hung Vanngo told Allure backstage at the Oscar de la Renta pre-spring 2025 show, where Rare Beauty’s new formula was used on models (Vanngo is Selena Gomez’s long-time makeup artist). “I love glowy, healthy skin,” he said. “But certain areas need to be controlled.”

Celebrity makeup artist Sean Harris, who has worked with Beyonce and Jordan Chiles, agrees—adding that there’s a fine line between dewy and drowning in sweat. “Especially during the summer heat, it’s important to create a velvety matte complexion that still looks fresh and can withstand the elements,” he says.

Prada Beauty

Reset Rebalancing Setting Powder

YSL Beauty

All Hours Hyper Finish Ultimate Setting Powder

Tower 28

GetSet Blur + Set Pressed Powder

Hourglass

Vanish Airbrush Pressed Powder

Makeup artists seemingly aren’t the only ones who approve. Although most of these launches are too new to measure metrics, Hourglass launched its Vanish Airbrush Pressed Powder in April; the brand says it sold out within 72 hours. And per Google Trends, “pressed powder” is currently being searched for more than ever (or at least since 2004, the earliest year available for tracking).

For those searching, each of the new launches seems to offer something a bit different. Prada Beauty’s Setting Powder is infused with plant-derived squalane and looks green in the pan but applies sheer (as a bonus, it’s stamped with that iconic triangle in the center). YSL Beauty’s All Hours Hyper Finish Setting Powder is non-comedogenic and lasts up to 24 hours.

The Tower 28 GetSet Blur + Set Pressed Powder is being touted as the ultimate option for sensitive skin, thanks to kaolin clay. Koestline confirms it’s a “fantastic ingredient” for sensitive skin, noting that “It’s really gentle and helps absorb excess oil without drying you out. It’s also naturally soothing, which makes it great for calming any irritation.” Allure content director Kara McGrath is a big fan of the formula. “I like to use a small, fluffy brush to apply it to my T-zone,” she says, noting that it works well layered over foundation or on otherwise bare skin. “It brings down any shininess but doesn’t make my skin look dried out or flat.”

It’s worth noting that many new formulas—like Rare Beauty, Too Faced, and Fenty Beauty—are also talc-free. “Going for talc-free powders can be a good idea, especially if you’re concerned about the potential health risks linked to talc,” explains Koestline. “Talc-free options often use ingredients like mica, silica, or cornstarch, which can give you the same smooth finish without the worry.” That being said, cosmetic chemist Ginger King notes that “talc-free also will increase product cost, because talc is cheap.”

Hughes has used the Tower 28 powder for far beyond shine control. “I love using pressed powder for reverse contouring, placing it under the contour to make it pop,” she says. “For sticky eyeshadow, buffing a bit of powder into it helps with blending. And instead of eyeshadow primer, I use GetSet on my eyelids before applying shadow.” Then there are the old standbys: “I also use a little powder to keep lipstick or lip gloss in place and to tone down overly pigmented cream blush.”

Hourglass

Veil Powder Brush

Charlotte Tilbury

Powder and Sculpt Brush

The way you apply your powder still matters—too much can still lead to a cakey finish. That’s why Harris recommends applying with a soft, fluffy brush for a diffused look. He also stresses proper skincare prep. “Use a hydrating moisturizer and finish with a dewy skin spritz to keep skin balanced,” says the pro. Once you have that foundation, powder up.

With the right prep and the right formula, all ages and skin types can get in on the pressed powder renaissance; they won’t settle into fine lines or wrinkles, and they also won’t dull your glow. “I work with everyone from 16 years old to 60 years old,” says Vanngo. “Julianne Moore is 63 and I still use powder on her.”


Read about the latest in makeup:


Now watch Cindy Crawford’s beauty routine.

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